Regal Jumping Spider: Complete Care Guide for Phidippus Regius

Phidippus regius — the regal jumping spider — is the undisputed star of the jumping spider keeping hobby. Abundant in Florida and the Caribbean, these large, intelligent salticids were among the first jumping spider species to gain mainstream hobby attention, and they remain the most popular for good reason: they are big enough to see clearly, bold enough to approach humans voluntarily, and impressive enough that watching one hunt is genuinely spectacular.

This comprehensive care guide covers everything you need to keep a regal jumping spider for its full lifespan: enclosure setup, temperature and humidity, feeding by life stage, molt management, handling, health, and breeding basics. Whether you’re getting your first spider or looking to improve on established care, this guide reflects current keeper community consensus and available scientific literature on the species.

Phidippus Regius at a Glance

Common name: Regal jumping spider

Scientific name: Phidippus regius C.L. Koch, 1846

Family: Salticidae (jumping spiders)

Native range: Florida, Georgia, Carolinas, Bahamas, Cuba, and surrounding regions; introduced to the Canary Islands

Size: females 12–22mm body length; males 6–13mm (significant sexual dimorphism)

Lifespan: females 2.5–3 years in captivity; males 1–1.5 years

Difficulty: beginner-friendly (easiest of the Phidippus species)

Temperament: bold, curious, highly exploratory; one of the most handleable spider species

Appearance and Sexual Dimorphism

Regal jumping spiders exhibit striking sexual dimorphism — males and females look quite different, a fact that surprises many new keepers who purchase spiderlings without knowing what to expect.

Female Appearance

Females are significantly larger (12–22mm), with a predominantly black body covered in white to orange hairs. The abdomen shows a variable pattern of white spots and bands. The chelicerae (fangs) are brilliant iridescent green — one of the species’ most distinctive features. When adult, the eyes appear large and forward-facing, giving the characteristic “big-eyed” expression that makes Phidippus regius so photogenic.

Male Appearance

Males are smaller (6–13mm) and show more variable coloration: typically black with white banding on the abdomen, but the Florida Panhandle population shows notably different coloration (more orange-red hairs) than the peninsular Florida population. Males have the same iridescent chelicerae as females. They mature faster than females and begin courtship display behaviors (vibrating abdomen, waving legs) as soon as they encounter a female’s scent or visual presence.

Color Morphs

Color morphs in captive-bred populations have been selectively developed by hobbyist breeders: “fire” morphs show increased orange coloration; “melanistic” morphs show nearly solid black coloring; regional wild-type populations from different parts of Florida and the Caribbean show natural variation. Color morphs are more expensive than standard specimens but functionally identical in care requirements.

Enclosure Requirements

Enclosure Size and Style

Phidippus regius is an arboreal (tree-dwelling and wall-climbing) species that uses height extensively. The enclosure should be taller than it is wide:

Minimum for an adult female: 8 x 8 x 12 inches (20 x 20 x 30 cm)

Recommended: 10 x 10 x 16 inches or larger for an adult female; more space enables more natural behavior

Spiderlings through instar 5: deli cups or small containers (4–8 oz) prevent prey from overwhelming small individuals; move up in size with each molt

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation is non-negotiable. The enclosure must have mesh ventilation on at least two faces — ideally the top and front, or top and one side. Single-top-vent enclosures do not provide adequate air exchange and result in stagnant, high-humidity conditions that encourage mold. The combination of top and front mesh is the community standard for Phidippus care.

Substrate and Decor

Substrate: 1–2 inches of coconut fiber in the bottom for moisture retention and fall cushioning. The substrate does not need to be deep — the spider will spend most of its time above the substrate level.

Decor: cork bark pieces at various angles (simulating bark surfaces in the wild), fake or live plants for visual complexity and anchor points for silk, and any clean driftwood or sticks for climbing structure. Avoid sharp objects that could injure a falling spider.

Temperature and Humidity

Temperature

Optimal range: 72–82°F (22–28°C) during the day. Nighttime drop to 65–70°F is acceptable and may benefit long-term health by mimicking natural temperature cycles. Room temperature in most homes is sufficient for Phidippus regius; supplemental heating is rarely needed unless the room consistently drops below 68°F.

Humidity

Target: 50–65% ambient humidity with a gradient (one side slightly wetter). Mist one corner or wall every 2–3 days with dechlorinated or distilled water. During pre-molt, increase misting slightly to ensure the substrate retains adequate moisture for exoskeleton pliability.

For detailed temperature and humidity management, see: Jumping Spider Temperature & Humidity: The Ideal Setup [Link to Article #6]

Feeding Phidippus Regius

Prey by Life Stage

Spiderlings (instar 1–3): Drosophila melanogaster (flightless fruit flies). This is the only appropriate prey at this stage.

Juveniles (instar 4–6): D. hydei, pinhead to 1/4-inch crickets, small dubia roach nymphs. Introduce variety as the spider grows.

Sub-adults (instar 7–8): 1/4–1/2 inch crickets, 8–12mm roach nymphs, small bluebottle flies. Gut-load all prey.

Adults: 1/2–3/4 inch crickets, 12–16mm dubia nymphs, full bluebottle flies, occasional waxworm (max 1x per week). Feeding every 3–4 days for females, 4–5 days for males.

Prey Sizing Rule

Always feed prey no longer than the spider’s abdomen. This rule prevents feeding-related injury and stress across all life stages. When in doubt, go smaller.

Handling Phidippus Regius

Phidippus regius is one of the most handleable spider species available to hobbyists. With consistent, gentle interaction over time, most females become remarkably calm on human hands — approaching voluntarily, investigating with their front legs, and showing none of the defensive bolting that characterizes less handleable species.

Building a Handling Relationship

Begin handling only after the spider has been in its enclosure for 2+ weeks and is eating normally

Offer your hand near the enclosure opening and allow the spider to walk on voluntarily — never grab or chase

Handle close to a flat surface for the first several sessions; regal jumping spiders are agile and a fall from height can be fatal

Keep sessions short initially (5–10 minutes) and increase as the spider becomes more comfortable

Never handle a spider that is in pre-molt, during the 7-day post-molt recovery, or showing defensive behavior (raised forelegs, rocking)

Sexing Phidippus Regius

Reliable sexing is possible from instar 4–5 onward. Before this stage, the sexual differences are difficult to distinguish without magnification. Indicators:

Female Indicators

Larger body size at equivalent instar

More complex abdominal patterning (bands and spots)

More rounded carapace profile

Male Indicators

Smaller body size at equivalent instar

Palps (small appendages near the chelicerae) become visibly larger and club-like as the male approaches adulthood

Sub-adult males develop the characteristic black-and-white abdominal banding pattern

Breeding Phidippus Regius

Breeding regal jumping spiders is achievable for intermediate keepers and a natural next step for those who want to close the loop from spiderling to adult. Successful breeding requires:

A healthy, well-fed adult female that has molted at least once as an adult

A healthy adult male, typically introduced only briefly for mating observation

Proper introduction protocol: place male in female’s enclosure briefly while keeper observes; remove male immediately after successful mating or if female becomes aggressive

Post-mating: female will build a silk egg sac 3–6 weeks after mating; increase feeding and humidity slightly during egg development

Egg incubation: 3–5 weeks depending on temperature; female guards the sac actively

Spiderlings emerge as a group and should be separated into individual containers within the first week to prevent cannibalism

Health and Common Issues

Failed Molts (Dysecdysis)

The most common health issue in regal jumping spiders, and almost entirely preventable through correct humidity management and prey removal before molting. See the full molt guide for prevention and emergency response.

Dehydration

A dehydrated regal jumping spider shows a shrunken, wrinkled abdomen (rather than the normal round profile). Correct by increasing misting frequency and ensuring water droplets are available on enclosure walls.

Mites

A heavy mite infestation (visible as tiny moving dots on the spider’s body) requires cleaning the entire enclosure, replacing substrate, and in severe cases, carefully removing mites from the spider with a soft brush while in a clean container. Most mite infestations in jumping spider enclosures are benign substrate mites rather than parasitic mites, but both warrant investigation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big do regal jumping spiders get?

Adult female Phidippus regius reach 12 to 22mm body length, making them one of the largest jumping spider species commonly kept as pets in North America. Males are considerably smaller at 6 to 13mm. Both sexes are stocky and robust in appearance, making them very visible and photogenic compared to smaller jumping spider species.

Where can I buy a regal jumping spider?

Phidippus regius is widely available through reputable invertebrate breeders on Morphmarket, specialty Facebook groups (“Jumping Spider Sales and Trades”), and some specialty reptile stores. Captive-bred specimens from known breeders are strongly preferred over wild-caught — they are healthier, better acclimated to captivity, and their hatch date is typically known (allowing accurate age tracking).

Do regal jumping spiders jump far?

Yes — all jumping spiders can jump many times their body length. Phidippus regius can easily jump 4 to 6 inches horizontally. They silk-drag before every jump (attaching a safety line to the surface they’re on) so a fall from a jump is cushioned. Handle close to surfaces and be aware of this jumping capacity when the spider is on your hand.

Can regal jumping spiders be kept together?

No. Phidippus regius are solitary and territorial. Adults kept together will fight, and the loser will be killed or seriously injured. Spiderlings can be kept together briefly (a few days after hatching while you prepare individual containers), but separate them as soon as possible. Each individual needs its own enclosure for its entire life.